A recent article in National Clothesline concerning a controversy over the term sizing and retexturizing prompted me to write this article to expand the concept, clarify and hopefully not confuse the issue.

The proper term that describes agents or procedures that are added to fabrics to enhance the properties of the fabric is "finishing agents." Manufacturers use finishing agents when producing fabrics and drycleaners restore these finishing agents that may be lost during wear, drycleaning or wetcleaning.

The drycleaner’s job in restoring finishing agents is not an easy one since the desired look and feel of the fabric must be considered before application. The problems associated with not using proper finishing agents might prompt these common complaints from the customers:

• Garment lost its feel.
• Feels limp and looks like a rag.
• Looks wrinkled and can not be properly pressed.

Finishing agents provide fabrics with the following desirable characteristics:

1. Feel and hand.
2. Drape.
3. Sheen and luster.
4. Softness.
5. Water repellency.
6. Presses easier and holds the press longer.

The finishing agents that provide these characteristics are starch, vegetable-based sizing, gelatins, synthetic resins, softening agents, and (heat, moisture, pressure). These products can vary greatly when applied to some fabrics better than others.

For example, starch and vegetable-based sizing give cottons and linens a nice crisp feel. Gelatin is used on rayon because it does not detract from the luster, but enhances it and gives rayon a nice hand and drape. A softening agent lends itself to wool while a synthetic resin lends itself to silk.

Heat, moisture and pressure have a significant role in the feel and look of a fabric. For example, if I press cotton when damp, it will have a stiffer feel than if I press it when the fabric is dry.

The use of finishing agents may come in a disguised form, such as detergents. For example, we are familiar with drycleaning a load of wools and silks in clear virgin solvent. The result is that the wools and silks have a harsh and dry feel, lack luster and generate a lot of static electricity. We refer to this condition as squeaky clean.

We then dryclean these fabrics using a drycleaning detergent and now the garments have a soft feel and lustrous look. We can now also add a sizing, either in a batch or charge, and the fabrics will have added characteristics that enhance the look and feel.

We can then add a dryside sizing, either in a batch or charge, to add further characteristics to the fabric. The sizing is not used to create a stiff feel but merely to give the fabric additional body, making it easier to press and to retain the press.

It is equally important to use the proper finishing agent in wetcleaning. I will use Laidlaw products as examples that best describe what I am referring to since I have been using these products for many years and they have a wide range of finishing agents available. A professional cleaner must first determine the look and feel that the fabric should have and use the products accordingly.

Example 1: Wools and silks that require a soft feel would entail the use of a cationic or non-ionic cleaning agent such as Soft n Brite. The use of a cationic softening agent such as Soften All will add to the soft feel and hand of the fabric.

After processing, the garment should be tumbled in a warm dryer for 1 to 3 minutes. The heat of the drying process is necessary to activate the softening agents left in the fabric. I have experimented many times using this procedure and it can be documented that the finishing agents used reduces the fabrics potential for shrinkage.

Example 2: A pair of jeans is received for processing. If the jeans require a soft look and feel the same procedure should be used as outlined with the wools and silks. Dry garments on low heat and press when thoroughly dry.

Example 3: A pair of jeans is received for processing and a stiff feel is requested by the customer.

Procedure. Wetclean using Power Brite. Add Aqua Size or Khaki Size. Dry garments to 90 percent dry and press with high heat and pressure for additional stiffness. Use a spray sizing to increase the stiffness of the fabric further.

Problem solving (finishing agents)

Sometimes loss or breakdown of finishing agents used in manufacture can create serious fabric problems. The following problem solving procedures can be attempted.

Cause. During manufacture synthetic resins are used that may break down during wear or cleaning.

Solution. Prespot the area with amyl acetate.

Cause. Excessive heat, moisture and mechanical action.

Solution. To attempt stretching and correction, the wool fiber must be impregnated with a softening agent. I had several wool sweaters sent to me with problems of excessive shrinkage. I soaked them for 15 minutes in Laidlaw’s Soft N Brite and Soften All. I did not rinse them but merely extracted them. The garments were soft and pliable, which made them easier to stretch and restore to their original size.

Cause. The sizing used on the rayon breaks down causing a whitish or discolored area.

Solution. Use the fogging method. Hold the steam gun 3 to 4 inches from the fabric and steam the area. Use air to dry the fabric. This will cause the disturbed sizing to blend in with the discolored area.

The garment can also be steamed on a press, lightly sprayed with water and then pressed using head pressure.

This article was written by Dan Eisen and used with his permission. Laidlaw makes several high quality sizing products, for more information, click here.  Dan is also  now taking orders for his new and complete manual "The Art of Wetcleaning" which is very much in demand. The price is $95, which includes shipping and handling. With every order he sends you a card which entitles you to a free wetcleaning kit from Laidlaw. Contact Dan at the address shown below.